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When curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the family utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.